EARS: Infections, Mites, Hemotomas, & Cropping

Probably one of the most frequent reasons for visits to the vet is an ear infection. Often, the pet parent will first notice a strange odor or see the pet scratching or pawing at the ear.

One of the most common mistakes, it seems, is assuming that the pet has ear mites. Cats and kittens are much more susceptible to ear mites, but you will also see ear mites in the dog. Typically ear mites are characterized by a very dark, grainy appearance, and are extremely itchy. Touch the cat's ears and get out of the way, because that back foot with nails out will be scratching almost immediately. Proper diagnosis is under the microscopic. In my book, Secrets of a Vet Tech, I teach you how you can diagnose these bad boys at home and I give you a very inexpensive home made remedy for them.

 The picture on the left shows the appearance of ear mites as I explained. It is very dark and grainy. Its important to clean the ears as good as possible before applying ear mite medication.

Below is a microscopic view of the ear mite.

As I said, dogs, typically have other ear issues. Normally, these are yeast or bacteria related. Dogs with floppy ears and long haired dogs with thick ear hair are most susceptible to infection. The reason for this is the warm, moist environment created. A very easy way to make the environment inhospitable to infection is by weekly cleaning with a vinegar:water mixture, making the environment more acidic, and for dogs with ear hair, plucking the hair.

 To the left is an ear with a yeast infection. Notice the dry, flaky appearance. Yeast infection can easily spread to other parts of the skin such as the paws when the dog scratches. You can also find that you will see ear infections in pets with any allergy that affects the skin, including food allergies. Remember, the ear is just another part of the largest organ on the body....the skin. So a food allergy can cause big problems even in the ears.

 To the right is an ear with a bacterial infection. Notice how moist the area is. This will come along with a very strong odor, redness and swelling. In this case, a vet would probably shave the surrounding fur, flush the ears with a nolvasan solution and apply a topical medication. Some veterinarians will sedate the pet if he/she feels that cleaning will be too painful for the pet. This is why its so important to do regular physical exams at home, so a problem like this does not occur.

Ear cropping proponents claim that cropping prevents ear infections, however, according to the Textbook of Small Animal Surgery, 3rd Ed, there is no medical advantage to the procedure at all. Ear cropping is the common name of the otoplasty procedure where the outer portion of the ear is removed. It is common in Great Danes, Boxers, Dobermans, Pitbulls, Boston Terriers, and a few other breeds.

Historically, it was done without anesthesia on dogs who were livestock guardian dogs, but most often for baiting and fighting dogs. Puppy mills still continue the practice without anesthesia as they do tail docking.

The idea that ear cropping prevents infection is because it allows air flow into the ears. However, if it were as helpful as believed, ear cropping would be done to dogs prone to infection such as those who spend lots of time in water. Labs and Golden Retrievers, both who typically love water and are hunting dogs, often come into the vet hospital with ear infections. Yet an ear cropping is never suggested.

The truth is this procedure is done because tradition has dictated it as has dog show conformation standards and because humans like the look of it in certain breeds. The doberman and pit bull look much more fierce with cropped ears, for instance.

Thankfully, this is changing. The AKC says that uncropped dogs will not be disqualified and people are starting to realize that if we are going to change the vicious reputation of "bully breeds" in America, we have to stop making them look the part. We have to be honest and  acknowledge that ear infection prevention is not the real reason for putting the dog through the procedure.

Ear problems, whether bacterial, yeast, or mites, if not dealt with, can lead to aural hemotomas. A hemotoma is a collection of blood and fluid caused by an injury or shaking. Usually the shaking of the head back and forth when the ears are itchy or painful, is the cause. Surgery is required to drain the hemotoma, and it will have to be tacked down to prevent it from filling up again. A hemotoma will usually forever change the look of the ear.  Below is a picture of a aural hemotoma on a cat. The ear has been shaved in preparation for surgery.

 So, its up to us to keep an eye on our pets and to look out for problems. This saves us money and ensures the comfort of our pets.

Simple, frequent exams, weekly ear cleaning, and plucking if necessary, can prevent so much trouble.

Proactive Pet Parenting....its what its all about.

Paws and Ponder: Things to know before buying your next pet

I have to tell you ahead of time, that although I am going to cover some things that you may not know about acquiring pets, I may jump on my soapbox a time or two in the process. After so many years as a vet tech and animal cruelty investigator, I have seen a lot of things, so I will be nothing but honest in this article. I also realize I will probably make several people angry, but the welfare of the animals is the important thing to me.

While I would like to think that every pet in the shelter would be adopted, I know that not all people will go to the shelter to adopt. I have even met people who refuse to adopt from rescues because they feel their questions are too intrusive.

For me, in a perfect world breeding pets would be highly regulated. I've heard the statement over and over "Its my d*mn (fill in the blank with species), I have a right to breed if I want to as long as I find them good homes!!!" To which I usually reply "Then you also have the right to accompany me to the shelter to euthanize them when they get older and no one wants them."(Spoken by someone who has  had to do the euthanizing and help manage a shelter, by the way. Sorry)

The purpose of this blog is to discuss a few things about acquiring a new pet that are not always considered.

Some simple things to begin with is making sure the puppy/kitten you are acquiring has been properly weened from the mother. The mother is ESSENTIAL to providing proper immunity. The immunity she gives a properly weened puppy lasts about the first 8 weeks of his/her life giving you time to begin vaccinations at 6 weeks as mom's immunity dissipates. Without that, the chances that you are paying for a puppy that will get parvo, distemper and all manner of other issues is very high.

If the puppy has not had this opportunity, and especially if he/she needs to be bottle fed, you had better be experienced. A bottle fed puppy has to eat every 2-4 hours depending on age. Are you prepared to stay up all night? Take him/her to work with you?

Another issue is something it seems people are afraid to talk about. While a teeny tiny tea cup puppy is adorable, they were not supposed to be bred this small and it leads to a number of HUGE problems. Tea Cup Yorkies/Morkies/Maltese/Chihuahuas, are very popular right now and breeders know it. The problem is, even if these puppies make it through weening, their problems are just beginning. First, it is often difficult to get them to eat properly. Their sugar levels plummet so easily, the breeder will most likely tell you to keep honey, syrup, or some other form of glucose (sugar) ready to put into a syringe and force down the pup's throat in order to bring the levels up and keep the puppy out of a coma. I can't tell you how many of these little guys I have seen die. I had to watch the pet parent of one not too long ago cry as the doctor and I were trying to bring the little puppy out of a coma and then having to do CPR to bring back her heartbeat. No matter what we did, we couldn't save her. These puppies, much like bottle fed puppies can't be left alone for this very reason.

Another issue to consider again deals with the genetic manipulation of man. One of the most widely recognized and loved dogs is the English Bulldog. With the big body, no neck, and a pushed in face only a mother could love, they are one of the most expensive dogs to own. Not only do they usually cost in the thousands to buy, they are riddled with health problems. In fact, if you look at the makeup of the dog, they were bred TO have health problems. They are very heat intolerant, have many skin issues and ear problems, and find it very difficult to breed. In all my nearly 20 years in the vet business, I have NEVER met one English Bulldog that was healthy although I am sure at least one exists somewhere. When you are considering a breed, think about these issues. Be prepared to have a very large vet bill for the rest of that pet's life. Some of the surgeries your pet may have to undergo simply to breathe well are found HERE, and they are not inexpensive surgeries. They are also prone to yeast infections in the folds of the skin around the tail, nostrils, and even in the ears.

To me, an indication that a breed should not be bred is when natural breeding or birth cannot occur. It sickens me to see a vet or breeder masturbate a male to collect his semen and then artificially inseminate the female. French and English bulldogs are both good examples of dogs that often must have this done in order to mate. In my time as an animal cruelty investigator, I received calls of animals being used sexually, and to be honest (and I realize I will make people angry), I don't see much difference between the two.

The females of these two can rarely give birth naturally so every single time they must have a painful C-section, then be expected to feed her pups. I don't know about you, but I find that cruel and don't think it needs to be supported. If we would stop buying these breeds or insist that they be bred back to the point that they are healthy, then breeders would change.

I would hope that by now, most people would know that most dogs sold in pet stores are from puppy mills. Puppy mills are horrid places where the breeding pets are kept, most often, in small cages, never really treated like a pet, but a breeding machine. Raids on puppy mills produce terrible images of neglect, feces covered cages, and worse. Yet by the time the puppies get to the store to sell, they have been cleaned up and made to look beautiful but often have underlying diseases. Not to mention the horror their parents are experiencing back home.

Puppy mills are now finding that pet stores will not buy their pets anymore, so they are resorting to the classifieds. A clue you are dealing with a puppy mill is that they advertise several different breeds for sale. Keep in mind, just because a dog comes with AKC papers does NOT mean it has been well taken care of. The only thing it means is that the sire and dam (dad and mom) are known and that the puppies were born on the property.

Tennessee and Virginia (my two local states) both passed legislation in the past few years. Tennessee''s legislation  requires  licensing, inspection and regulation of commercial dog and cat breeders, which is not enough in my opinion. They were finally forced to face the issue after a huge puppy mill facility was raided near Nashville. Read that story HERE

Virginia's reaction was to reduce the number of breeding females allowed on a property. That caused a ton of animals to be begrudgingly turned over to local rescues throughout Southwest Virginia and East TN. One kennel alone in Gate City, Springvale Kennels, owned by Theda Jennings, surrendered dozens of dogs to reduce her number to 29. For that story, click  HERE

If you go to a home, where the individual refuses to let you in the home/facility, insists on meeting you somewhere else, will not even let you see the parents, then walk away. Its a very bad indication.

Next you have backyard breeders. A backyard breeder is described as someone with all or some of the following characteristics. Excessive breeding of a female to the detriment of her health. Poor veterinary care. Tail docking at home instead of under veterinary care. Not properly vaccinating or deworming the pets. Selling the pets on a first come, first serve basis, instead of concern for the pet's future. Lack of knowledge of selective breeding goals. Breeding for fighting, or as bait animals. Allowing breeding without the concern of finding good quality homes and simply adding to the over population problem. And my favorite pet peeve, not even knowing how to spell the name of your breed. She is a CHIHUAHUA not chiwawa. He is a SHIH TZU, not a shit zue.

 I am of the firm belief that if you want to breed animals, you should be trained to do so,  rescue your breed from shelters, and assist in euthanizing shelter pets at least once before you make the decision to breed. Too many breeders insist that their pets never make it to the shelter, but they do. There are tons of purebred dogs in shelters. As the saying goes "don't breed or buy while shelter pets die". So come see what its like to have to participate in euthanizing before you add more pets to the world.

A recent fad in puppy breeding is "designer dogs". Designer dogs are guess what? Mixed breeds that you will pay hundreds of dollars for. No matter how you phrase it, mix a chihuahua with a dachshund and you get a mixed breed dog, often called a mutt. Know where else you can get the biggest selection of awesome designer dogs? Your local shelter. Check them out first and save a life. 

Safely Rehoming your Pet:When Free to a Good Home is Dangerous

Lately, in East Tennessee, we have noticed an individual, or indivduals, responding to the "Free to a Good Home" ads. She/he claims to be the new FOREVER home home and loved on the pet in your presence, takes the pet home, and the pet disappears in days.

Its nothing new. When I was a kid, a local "animal lover" was caught up in a scandal of acquiring animals to sell for experimentation. Only then the acquiring was done by stealing family pets and grabbing every stray pet he could find.

Its much easier now to acquire those pets. With Craigslist, the classifieds, online yard sale groups, and sites dedicated to finding good homes for pets, answer an ad, seem nice enough, and the owner unwittingly hands you the pet thinking their pet will be safe.

In addition to experimentation, pets like this are often used as bait dogs to train dogs to fight, kittens, bunnies and all animals small enough are used for snake food, while others just use them to make a quick profit.

Most people believe they can spot a bad person, but the was proven untrue locally when that "bad person" was a sweet late-teen-to-early-twenties young mother who said it was for her son's birthday.

Now it has been confirmed by Facebook posts that she was putting them up for sale almost immediately after taking them home.

The families were devastated. They thought they had found a great forever home for their dogs who would have a little boy to grow up with. Instead they don't know where the pet's are, who bought them, and if they are safe. They didn't give their pets up because they didn't love them, but for reasons that were well thought out.

So what is the proper way to rehome a pet? While there is never any full proof way, the following will go much further to ensure a good home is chosen. These are some methods used by rescue groups to screen the potential home:

• NEVER adopt on a first come-first serve basis. May work for yard sale items, but not living and breathing creatures. NEVER advertise "must go today". Not only does that sound like you don't give a crap about the pet, it means you will give him/her to the first person who shows up.
• NEVER offer the pets for free. It attracts the bad guys. Insist on a rehoming fee. For bunnies, guinea pigs, hamsters, make sure the fee is high enough not to attract someone looking for lunch for their snakes.
• Have them fill out an application for the pet online that also serves as a contract that the pet will not be sold for profit, baiting, experimentation but that you will be contacted first if it doesn't work out. Make sure they know that you will verify their information when you meet. If they refuse, they don't get the pet. 
• Get their name, address, phone, and drivers license number and confirm it when they come to get the pet.
• Ask for references. Particularly vet references. You want to know their history on how they treated their other pets. If its not good or they have a history of giving away their pets, don't adopt to them. Also ask for the name of their landlord and make sure they are allowed pets. Although some good people sneak animals into homes/apartments, if the landlord finds out, the pet will have to be rehomed again. 
• Insist you bring the pet to THEIR home. You want to see the environment. Watch how they and/or the kids interact with your pet. If your pet piddles on the floor and they don't get upset and just clean it up, that's probably a good sign. If they get upset in front of you, what will they do when you are gone?   If you are not comfortable with what you see, don't leave the pet. 
• Be honest about your pet. If he/she is not potty trained, tell them. Its one of the top reasons people will get rid of a pet. Never adopt a pet who does not get alone well with other pets or children into a home that has one. Your pet will be the first out the door when it doesn't go well.
•  If your pet is not spayed/neutered, offer to give them their rehoming fee back once you receive proof that this has been done. Typically, in my experience, those who refuse to spay a female are only looking for a breeding bitch and another way to make money. There are almost always local groups or clinics that will spay, neuter, vaccinate, and more at a reduced price. Better yet, do all that before you rehome them. That's the way good rescue groups work. 
• If your pet is microchipped, some recommend keeping the information in your name so you are contacted if the pet is surrendered to the shelter or if he/she runs away from a bad situation. 
• For puppies, NEVER adopt them out until they are fully and naturally weaned. They will have no immunity if ripped away from their mother and their chances of survival are little. If for some reason, the mother rejects them, and you need help bottle feeding, only choose experienced people to adopt to or to foster. 
• If you decide your young pet is going to have to go to the shelter or rescue group, please vaccinate 1-2 weeks before taking him/her in if possible (not before 6 weeks old). An unvaccinated or poorly vaccinated puppy or kitten is incredibly susceptible to disease, and although cute puppies and kittens get homes quicker, if they are unvaccinated, their chances of survival are lower. 

While these methods may take a little longer to find a good home, it is the least you can do for your pet.  My feelings are very strong on this matter. Animals are not commodities to buy at sell without consideration for their welfare. Those who think they are, don't need to have a pet. If for any reason, you get the feeling that perhaps you have chosen the wrong person for your pet, never hesitate to change your mind. Your pet's quality of life is dependent on it.

Distemper in Dogs: In Memory of Petra

Recently in Southwest Virginia, an animal shelter was shut down by the state vet after a suspected distemper outbreak. The parvo virus is the most talked about disease to plague shelters as I have discussed in previous blogs. The reason for that most likely is the explosive bloody diarrhea that makes it so memorable. Distemper works differently, has been around longer, and is actually the cause of more deaths.

My first experience with it was long before I worked in the animal care field. I found a small puppy near my college campus, took her home, and named her Petra. She seemed to be doing well, and I took her for her vaccines. Then she started showing symptoms of illness. She lost her appetite and began to lose weight. She had a runny nose and some diarrhea. then she has a seizure. What was a happy puppy, was suddenly very sick.  It was a Sunday and I paged  Dr. Pilkington right away. He was in church but didn't think twice to tell me to meet him at his office. He looked at Petra and asked if I could leave her with him and he would do all he could. No matter how hard he tried, she didn't make it. It was distemper. I had only had her for about 9 days.

I later learned that the first stage of distemper symptoms appear 6-9 days following exposure. When I found her, she had already been exposed. She was at that age after 8 weeks where she had already lost her mom's immunity, so she really didn't stand a chance. At least she knew love before she passed.

Distemper attacks so many different areas including the brain, the mucous membranes (think nose/eyes), the skin, respiratory tract and on to the gastrointestinal tract. It can mimic a cold, allergies, and even parvo. Over a few days, the nasal discharge turns from clear to yellow and thick. The pet may have a dry cough.

Its a bit unusual for dogs to die as quickly from distemper as my Petra did. Doc said she was so young and skinny when I found her, she didn't have the typical immunity she should have. With some puppies, they may improve temporarily if antibiotics are started as they fight off secondary infections.

The second stage can take up to two to three weeks after exposure. Its at this point that the brain becomes involved. Petra's seizure was the distemper attacking the brain. Sometimes pets will walk in circles, fall over, or appear to be blind. At this stage, an untrained eye would fear rabies, when in fact, it is the distemper causing the damage. The muscles will contract painfully. Often pets with distemper will develop hard pads on the feet and a rough, thorny texture to the nose.

Dogs can survive distemper. When I lived in California, I met a couple who found a dog in Mexico, brought him home and had him treated for distemper. His brain was quite affected and he could not walk normally, but he was loved. The pads of his feet were hard and his teeth were not well protected by enamel which is another side effect of the disease.

Generally dogs who do survive will do so with some type of lasting brain damage. Their behavior may be abnormal and they may be epileptic. Eventually, the damage will most likely worsen and most will need to be humanely euthanized.

On the positive side, proper vaccination can prevent all of this. Just as with parvo, it is important to keep an unvaccinated puppy isolated from the elements. Distemper is passed along very easily and since the disease takes time to manifest itself, you never know if the puppy you are exposing your pet to at the park or pet store is a carrier. So be careful.

Note that cats are not susceptible to this form of distemper. Although there is a cat disease we call distemper, it is not the same. I will explain further in another blog. Humans are also not able to catch this disease even though it is very similar to our measles. Unfortunately many of our wildlife are susceptible and unfortunately, it is the one disease that domestic animals have passed on to wildlife instead of the other way around. Some species are even becoming endangered, including that black footed ferret. So please keep that in mind and vaccinate your pets. Humans have done enough damage to our wildlife. We can stop this damage with proper vaccination. Its not a lot to ask. 

Tail Docking...No ifs, and's, or butt's!

I have been writing about controversial procedures because I think everyone needs to be fully educated about what they are asking of their pet. Sometimes, procedures become so common, people forget why it was done in the first place.

So when we are talking about saving money and putting the best interest of the pet first, then we have to know details to make educated decisions.

So where did the idea of tail docking come from?  Believe it or not, historically docking the tail was thought to prevent rabies, make the back stronger, and prevent injury while hunting, baiting, or fighting. Pretty sad, huh? In fact in England in the 1700's a tax was levied on any working dog whose tail was not docked.

There are 17 breeds that are born with bobbed tails such as the Corgi. Other breeds such as Rottweilers and Cocker Spaniels have their tails docked. Docking is now part of breed standards in many dog shows and kennel clubs and dog's whose owner or pet parent refuses, find that their pet's are severely penalized during confirmation.

The argument in favor of tail docking says that it prevents damage to the tail. For long haired breeds the reasoning is it prevents feces from getting stuck in the long hair of the tail as well as brambles and foxtails. 

The problem with these two arguments is that there are many other breeds with long tails who do not suffer tail injury even though they are as active as hunting and ratting breeds. As for hygienic issues and concerns of long fur matted by brambles, a simple solution is to clip the fur off. Most dogs today are not hunting dogs, but pets. They lay around on the sofa and walk on the street, not in the woods.

How is the procedure done? There are two methods. One method is done mostly by the breeders at home. A band is put on the tail blocking any blood flow. Within a few days, the tail below the band will die and fall off. The second method is done by the vet at 3 days old. With the puppy full awake, the tail is cut off with surgical scissors or a surgical blade at the desired area. Usually, the vet will put in one stitch to prevent bleeding.

While those in favor of docking like to believe both procedures are painless, I dare anyone to put a rubber band tightly around your finger (or any other appendage) for a few minutes. I'll wait............

Okay, rubber band on? Now lets continue.

 I have been present for many tail dockings and I can tell you that the puppy screams to the top of his lungs when the scissors slice through his tail. More often than not, the breeder, who was standing there laughed about it. That did not make her very endearing to me.

 The cartilage is indeed softer as a pup, but to suggest it is not painless is an attempt to feel better about the procedure. As someone who has had cartilage piercings I can assure you, they hurt like a b*tch.

I think it is time to stop making tail docking routine. To me, responsible breeders should step forward and refuse to allow it to be done to their pups. And those who decide to purchase, instead of adopt, should insist on only buying pups who have not had their tales docked. Pressure needs to be put on the Kennel Clubs to stop punishing animals and their owners for refusing to engage in this procedure.

If, for an individual dog, the tail becomes an issue, then consider the procedure. While it will be necessary to do it under anesthesia and will cost more, at least it will be something that only needs to be done in special circumstances.

I met a lady once, who asked to have the tail of her very large dog amputated. I asked why. She said she lived in a small home with small children. They all adored the dog, but every time the dog got excited, the tail would knock over lamps, and sometimes even injure the kids as it smacked them in the face. She was willing to pay for, not only a pain injection, but requested pain meds to be sent  home to keep him as pain free as possible. She has given it lots of thought and was willing to do what ever was necessary to keep him comfortable. I understood her reasoning and was pleased with her compassion which I never seemed to see from breeders.

While I realize I come down on certain issues pretty heavily and find it difficult to be neutral, it is because of what I have seen. The pet parent does not see the puppy scream or the just declawed kitten wake up from surgery. The technician does. And while we see pain everyday, inflicting it unnecessarily is very difficult. Refusing to assist often means being fired. So it puts the technician in a very difficult position. So if I am opinionated on certain issues, please understand my perspective.

So, how is that finger feeling?

When Vaccines can be Dangerous to Rescue Puppies

If you have ever worked in an animal shelter, you are terrified of  Canine Parvo Virus (CPV) commonly called simply "parvo". It is enemy "number two" of the shelter world (behind too many pets and not enough homes).

Parvo was first recognized as a separate virus in 1978 and spread like wildfire. While proper vaccination is the first step toward eradicating it, the problem is, too many pets remain unvaccinated. The virus spreads through feces. The infected pet defecates on the ground, the feces decays into the ground where it can live for up to ten years. Another pet visits the same area or a person walks on that infected ground and often, takes the virus with them.

Parvo has two forms. The most common form is explosive, bloody diarrhea that causes extreme dehydration if not treated. There is no cure for parvo, only medical support. A puppy that has been diagnosed as positive by a parvo test must be hooked up to IV fluids, and all medication given through the IV port, in the fluids, or by injection. Giving medication by mouth to a parvo pup will usually result in vomiting. In my book, Secrets of a Vet Tech, I do show how I gave subcutaneous fluids (fluids given under the skin) to a pet, but it is rare that subcutaneous fluids will do enough to save one with parvo. Its not impossible, but it does not give the pet the best chance for survival. 

The second form I have only observed once in my career and that is when parvo attacks the heart muscle. The one incident I saw was in one of my foster pups. It was the quickest I have ever seen parvo cause death. It was just a matter of hours from lethargy to death.

Here's how a puppy's world is supposed to be like: In an ideal situation, a puppy is given his/her mother's immunity through breastfeeding. This immunity lasts up to about 8 weeks old. Vaccines are usually started at 6-8 weeks to keep the immunity up as mom's immunity dissipates. Vaccines are continued every 3 weeks until 4 months.

Its important to understand how vaccines work. Usually a tiny strain of the virus is introduced to the body. Sometimes the virus has been deactivated (often called "dead") which tends to be safer. The body recognizes an invasion, creates the weapons needed to fight it. Those weapons are antibodies. Each time the virus in introduced, the number and strength of the antibodies grow until they have formed a huge army that is capable of eradicating the virus. It takes time and repeated exposure to make the army strong.  

Taking a young (under 4 months old) well vaccinated puppy out to the park or public areas where other pets have been can still be dangerous. While the army is in training, it is not ready for the war.
 I always recommend waiting until at least 2 weeks after all vaccines are completed before venturing out to the doggie park.

Shelter puppies most often have not come from this ideal situation. Few have been vaccinated at all, and if so, it is often improperly. This doesn't mean however, that adopting a shelter puppy is going to guarantee that you will get a parvo puppy. Some will have a bit of acquired immunity from small amounts of environmental exposure or be young enough that mom's immunity is still working. 

Many years ago, when I was on the board of directors of a humane society that ran the local shelter, one of our big discussions and conundrums was what to do with the puppies? While proper sanitation with bleach or other anti-parvo cleaners can do wonders, you still will miss some place, some how. Ideally, the puppy would have been vaccinated 2 weeks before coming into the shelter, but we had no control over that. We couldn't afford to vaccinate them coming in only to put them to sleep when no one adopted them. And then there was the issue of did vaccinating drop their immunity just at the time they are exposed?

Just like with human children, vaccinating a puppy will not immediately give him/her immunity. Vaccinate a puppy walking into the shelter, the immunity drops temporarily as he/she develops the antibodies to fight the introduced virus. Expose that puppy to a strong strain of parvo from a sick animal, and that puppy isn't prepared.

Most shelters, it seems has found that fostering is the best option. Get those puppies out and away and into a more controlled environment. I believe this has made a world of difference in survival rates.

I do think one mistake is often made in this process. Once we take them out to foster them, we vaccinate too early. If they were surrendered today, not even taken into the general population, then yes, I can understand vaccinating them immediately. However, if they have had possible exposure or were found in a questionable environment, then I believe, vaccinating immediately is the worse thing you can do.

From the moment of exposure to parvo until you are "in the clear" is ten days to two weeks. Anything that reduces immunity during that time is dangerous. And what to vaccines do temporarily? Exactly.

When I started fostering for a local humane society a few years ago, the common practice was for the animals to be pulled from the shelter, taken to the vet, vaccinated, and then brought to my rescue, T.Paws. I lost a precious chihuahua, Zorro to parvo, but his sister lived. I lost Sophie to parvo (that attacked her heart), but her sister Maggie survived. I had a group of chihuahuas come in from a hoarding situation, and Pearl, who was over a year old, came down with parvo, but lived as did the other chihuahuas. The dogs had all been fine at the shelter. No symptoms of any problems. All the deaths and parvo cases came within days of the vaccine.

So I said enough. Any pet that was to come to my rescue from the shelter were not to be taken to the vet for vaccines. If they wanted to test for heartworm and deworm, fine, but no vaccines. When the pups/dogs arrived, they were only allowed to be within a certain area of my property. They could be with my permanent pets who were well vaccinated, but not in any area a stray could access. If they had not been dewormed at the vet, I dewormed, usually with Panacur. If no sighs of parvo were evident after 10 days, I vaccinated.

As of this post, I have not had any incidents of parvo. (Knock on wood).

Right now, I have a 4 week old lab puppy named Rocky. He was given to me by an older couple who found him in the street. He was a hungry boy when I brought him home. His digestive system is getting used to Puppy Chow and he is having some loose stool. He has been getting Panacur for two days now, and today he threw up round worms which is not unusual for any puppy. I've been giving him bits of yogurt which is a good way to give his tummy the proper bacteria to digest as it should. The loose stool is not surprising considering the diet change, but I still watch his every move looking for parvo signs. I am hoping, if I am correct about his age of 4 weeks, that mom's immunity is still working in him. My plan is to give him until two weeks before vaccinating and focus on getting his digestive system in good working order with regular meals and give his body time to adjust.

To keep updated on his progress, join me  at T.Paws Rescue on Facebook. If you are interesting in knowing more about vaccines, I covered it very thoroughly in "Secrets of a Vet Tech". I think you will be very surprised at what you will discover.

Cat Declawing: Vet Tech Perspective

Declawing a cat is a controversial topic. While I understand that, at times, it is what keeps a cat out of the shelter when a pet parent feels that the cat is destroying furniture, it is rare that I find a pet parent who is aware of what the procedure actually is. While I am not trying to make anyone feel guilty, an educated decision is important.

The term "declawing" seems innocent enough. You just clip the claws all of the way back to the quick. Right? A little pain killer, and poof! Problem solved. While the claw is indeed removed, so is the bone to the first joint, the adjoining ligaments, the nerve endings, and the cells that provide for regrowth.

In most of the procedures I have regrettably assisted with or observed in my time as a vet tech, the procedure has changed little with the exception of the type of pain medication used. After the pet is anesthetized, the technician prepares the bandages and a tourniquet. The tourniquet is tightened and secured near the top of the leg nearest the body. A antiseptic of some type is used to clean the area but rarely is the hair shaved. The veterinarian extends the nail and first bone of the toe by pressing down on the paw. A guillotine clipper is used to clip off as much as possible including the joint, if the animal is young enough. (The younger, the softer the tissue). Once this is removed, a surgical blade removes the rest. The foot is tightly bandaged and will remain so overnight. Special cat litter must be used for one to two weeks thereafter.  If done improperly, the nail can grow back. This is repeated on every toe on every foot or just the front two as requested by the pet parent.

Years ago, when I first started in veterinary medicine, pain meds were given in the form of an injection usually as the pet was waking up. Watching those cats wake up was heart wrenching. While nerve blocks, improved pain protocols and even a new laser procedure have improved things, it is still removal of a toe.

Its important to know that while we walk on our feet, and dogs walk on their pads, cats walk on their toes. The implications are evident.

Each time I saw it, I was reminded of the torture techniques used by the mob in movies in which they cut off a finger or toe until you give them the information. The guillotine clippers made it even more dramatic.

I am a firm believer that declawing should never be a usual procedure and included in kitten packages. It should be considered an exception rather than a rule. Too often, veterinarians do not educate pet parents on the possible behavioral side effects, that as technicians we are acutely aware of. We know, that as that pet grows, instead of relying on his/her natural defense to smack with a front foot, he/she will resort to the only thing left...biting. We will often hear that Boots now has a bad attitude problem and will not use the litterbox. Keep in mind that by giving a cat two weeks worth of horrible pain upon trying to cover up after using the litterbox, you have in essence, used a very effective behavioral technique to avoid the litterbox.

While these things do not happen to every cat and some will recover and be loving cats, not all will. I think its important to ask yourself, "What is more important, my cat or the furniture?". If your answer is the furniture, then maybe having a cat or dog is not your best bet.

Suppose the cat is declawed and these symptoms, such as litterbox avoidance or biting become too much for you to handle? What is your plan? Put the cat outside without any defenses? Please consider these things before you make a decision about declawing.

If it bothered you to read this, then maybe that's your answer. 

Danger Danger Danger! The Danger of Matted Fur

I have always been amazed at the danger of matted fur. Its just hair, what can it do?

The answer is plenty. I remember the first time as an animal cruelty investigator that I confiscated a matted shih tzu who had been tied outside in the winter without any shelter. I took him back to the shelter and after taking photos, we got out the clippers and got to work.

Getting out blades to go under the mat was most certainly a task. Once we did however, it came off in one big piece like a toupee shaped like a dog. It took quite a bit of time to finish the legs and face but what we found underneath was a very grateful dog! A beautiful shih tzu that had once been a cute little puppy that was thrown outside when he wasn't a puppy anymore. The sores caused by the matting were treated with antibiotic cream and he found a new home. Unfortunately, that wasn't the worst matted pet I saw in my career.

This little guy was lucky that it was winter. Winter means no flies. No flies means no fly larvae, commonly known as maggots. As the fur twists in a mat, it often tears the skin and opens a wound. Most of you have watched CSI enough to know what happens when a fly finds an open wound. Eggs are laid which hatch into fly larvae. I'll just leave it at that.

Another issue that can escape notice on a dog that doesn't like to roll over for belly rubs is matting between the legs. This can become so serious that the dog cannot sit or stand properly without ripping off the flesh. For dogs with longer hair on the tail and around the rectum, the hair can gather feces, mat together until the pet becomes impacted and cannot defecate. The last serious matting I can recall is a one that cuts off circulation to an extremity. I have known dogs to require leg amputations because of this very issue.

Cats are not immune to this problem. Younger, healthy cats are excellent at keeping themselves well groomed. However, once that cat becomes elderly, the ability to turn around enough to groom properly can cause some issues. The worst case of this I saw in my time as a veterinary technician was in an older cat who kindness dictated we sedate before even attempting anything. What we found was that under the matting, a horrible skin infection had set in. If we tried to remove the mat, no matter how gentle (even brushing), the entire upper skin layer came with it. There was no way we could allow this cat to wake up in good conscience knowing the unimaginable pain that would come with it, so the owner opted to euthanize.

In most cases, it is not an intention of cruelty that causes these situations, but just not understanding what a problem matted fur can be.

I hesitate to show you some of the images below, but its necessary to see the before and after. These images were borrowed from DogTipper, and the full story can be read HERE

To the right is Ripley who was found in Louisiana in a ditch in this condition. While I would like to say this case is extremely unusual, its not.

Below is the wonderful dog underneath all that matted fur. A beautiful little dog who needed love and regular grooming.

Regular grooming does not necessarily mean professional expensive grooming. It means brushing the hair, trimming the nails, cleaning the ears, plucking the fur in the ears if necessary, checking the anal glands and even shaving the fur a few times a year to prevent matting.

More about grooming, including how to do all the above can be found in my book "Secrets of a Vet Tech".

This is what I am saying about the importance of proactive care. It saves you money, and most importantly, it saves the pet misery. There is no way to calculate the cost of the pain a matted pet endures, but there is a way to calculate the price you would pay to have a matted dog or cat shaved. Call your local veterinarian or grooming salon and ask for an estimate.

Love your pet enough to learn how to keep him or her as happy and healthy as possible. Its the least we can do for the unconditional love they offer us.

Moving? Options for your Pets

" I have to move and can't take my dog/cat/iguana etc with me"

This is a sentence uttered quite often at local shelters. So lets talk about it. First, we have to consider that everyone has been hit hard in this economy and many people are losing their homes and/or apartments as they lose their jobs. Its a fact of life.

At the same time, sometimes there are ways to avoid losing the pet when moving, and most certainly, a better way to transition the pet if surrender is necessary.

Before your move, check this site to help you locate pet friendly apartments. It would also behoove your local shelter and humane society to keep a list of local apartments that rent to pet owners.

The US government, realizing that many people would rather be living in substandard condition rather than give up their pets passed a law that many people are unaware of:

"Tenants in "federally assisted" housing for the elderly or handicapped are allowed by law to own pets.  (Housing and Urban-Rural Recovery Act of 1983, 12 U.S.C. section 1701r-1.) This rule applies even if the federal government does not own the rental housing—it's enough that a federal agency (the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development, for example) subsidizes it. Owners and managers may place reasonable regulations on pets, after consulting with tenants.  Contact a local HUD office or your county Housing Authority to find out if a particular rental is covered."

This also applies to disabled individuals, particularly if the pet is an emotional support pet as designated by your doctor. For more information about this law, please click  here.

Next, talk to the landlord of the potential place you will be renting and ask for specifics about the "no pet" rule. You may find that he/she is referring to dogs/cats only, and your iquana or bearded dragon is no problem. Also inquire as to whether a little extra rent per month would persuade the landlord to reconsider. In one house I rented many years ago, I agreed that in exchange for allowing pets, I would improve the property over time. I painted the entire house, inside and out which helped the landlord when it was time for me to move out. I made sure no damage was caused by my pets, and if it was, I repaired it at my cost. If I ever needed a good reference for further renting, I proved my worth as a tenant and was more likely to be trusted with pets down the road.

So what if you have done all these things and you still are not allow to take your pets with you? First, is your situation temporary? Perhaps a friend would be willing to care for Sparky for a few months. Never hurts to ask. If that is not a possibility, what is the best way to go about finding a new home?

There is nothing that ticks me off more than an ad that reads "Dog free to good home: must get rid of today". First, your dog is not trash to "get rid of". Second, you were probably aware long ago that you would probably need to rehome your pet, so be responsible about it.

If you know the move is coming in a month or two, contact a local rescue group and see if they would be willing to do a courtesy listing for you on www.Petfinder.org. Having your pet adopted out through a rescue organization should ensure that the applicant has been carefully considered by the rescue and his or her references checked. Instead of dumping your pet at the rescue, "foster" your pet at your home until a good match is found.

If your dog is a particular breed, look for breed rescues. Some rescues specialize in German Shepherds for instance, and may even consider a mix breed that is "close enough". Be willing to look not only in your immediate area, but in neighboring states. Thanks to the power of the internet and social networking sites, there is a great network of animal rescuers who will drive and even fly a pet to another rescue to save his/her life. Be willing to be the driver, or help pay for gas.

 At the Scott County Humane Society in Gate City, VA, for instance, we were able to arrange transport of nearly a dozen chihuahuas to a huge and fabulous rescue called Popcorn Park in NJ. The power of Facebook networking and the willingness to ask, makes a world of difference.

A lot of people immediately look for "no kill" rescues, which is understandable. But not all "no kill" rescues are alike, so research the rescue first. Keep in mind, if an animal can't find a home in a no kill facility, that sometimes means a lifetime in a cage. Not all "no kill" shelters have a good group of volunteers willing to foster. One way to find out their reputation is to Google their name. Reviews may come up that you wouldn't have seen otherwise.

"Kill shelters" are often given a bad reputation. I hate to use that term, because they are not evil entities. In fact, they are usually the good guys who are willing to work in an environment where they know they will love an animal only to have to euthanize her. I've noticed over the years having volunteered and worked in "kill shelters" that the same people who condemn the shelter are the same ones who allow their pets to breed or who say they love animals "too much"  to work in a place "like that". They refuse to volunteer at weekend adoption events or even buy kitty litter for the shelter. One thing I can tell you, although no two shelters are the same, most have good people who love animals enough to allow themselves to hurt when they can't save them all.

So, with that said, save a "kill"shelter for last. Not only for your pet, but for the people who work there. If you do take your pet there, offer something that will be a great incentive for adoption. For instance, if he/she is not already altered (spayed/neutered), offer to pay for it. Get the pet fully vaccinated at least two weeks before entering the shelter. That will protect the pet and also give her an extra boost for adoption. Write down anything you know about him. Is he good with kids? Get along with other animals? Is she house broken? Did she go to obedience school? Does he love to cuddle? Is he a great lap dog? Particularly gentle? Consider it like writing a resume for a job, but never lie. If your dog hates kids, make sure they know that. If he is owner protective, or food aggressive, be honest about it. It may not disqualify him for adoption, but it will help the shelter place him in a situation to suit his needs.

As tempting as it is to give your pet away free to "save" him/her from the "pound", please do not adopt to the first person who responds without consideration of what type of person they are. Dog fighters are notorious for responding to free ads for bait dogs. Free rats or bunnies to good homes, often get to be snake dinner. A free indoor cat can end up a barn cat, which is not in itself bad, but if the cat is older and declawed, she may suddenly find herself in a position to defend herself without the necessary tools. If you are going to advertise on your own, ask for a rehoming fee, and use the same criteria used by rescue groups. Ask for references including the vet they use. And call them all. Find out what kind of facility the pet will be living in. If the dog is going to be tied out in the back yard, that is most likely dooming him/her to a lifetime of boredom and neglect. Ask if you can come by to see where your pet will be living. If they say "no", don't adopt the pet to them. A family who knows they will provide a good home would have no trouble showing you the love their home provides. Be diligent. Its the least you could do for your pet.

Dogs,Cats, and Kids, Oh My!

My thoughts when I first started writing Secrets of a Vet Tech, was to help pet parents who had been hurt financially and were struggling to keep their pets. It seems everyone I know is either losing a job, having a medical crisis, or losing their homes.

As a rescuer and a former member of a humane society board in charge of operating an animal shelter, I am well aware that in times like these, sometimes the first to go is the pet. It was for that reason I was trying desperately to find ways to make keeping the family pet feasible.

Humans who work in a shelter, especially a kill shelter, tend to become very bitter. They see animals dumped like trash, neglect and abuse, and backyard breeders who use an animals to make a buck. The animals come in damaged and abandoned, and the shelter staff tries their best to make them feel love knowing that they may have to turn around and euthanize that same animal that they, themselves, have come to love. Its enough to drive you mad.

Those kinds of people are necessary however, because they force themselves to see daily what others can't even stand to read about.(How many of you wanted to stop reading the paragraph above?)

At the same time, that anger and bitterness, needs to be turned around into searching for solutions. Not every person who brings their pet to the shelter is a bad person. Quite often, he is a good person beating himself inside for not being able to find a better solution.

That's why I wrote the book. If we can find ways to make it affordable, most people would LOVE to keep their family pet. Whether it is medical issues that can be taken care of at home, preventing medical issues with preventive care, finding financial resources to help in times of need, or just not making them feel like bad pet parents when they can't afford top brand foods, we have to do something.

Aside from financial issues, what are some other reasons people give up their pet? That, my friends, will be the discussion of the next few blogs as we try to find solutions to keeping that pet with the family. 

First, let's discuss babies and pets.  The young couple desperately in love adopt a pet not even considering that they will probably have a baby during the lifetime of that pet. The baby is born, replaces the dog/cat etc, and no one understands why the pet gets upset. Then he/she is considered "too dangerous" to be around the child and off to the shelter he/she goes.

I realize how tempting it is when you start a new relationship and a new family to want a pet. Been there, done that. But please take into consideration that dogs, cats, and other common pets can live twenty years. Instead, consider getting a pet with a shorter lifespan. Make an awesome aquarium set up.  Get a rat (which makes an awesome pet) or a guinea pig. Both of these pets can be held and cuddled when raised from young ones, yet their life expectancy is 4-6 years.

If you do have a dog and you know a baby is on the way, go through a dog training course. This will give your dog the discipline needed to learn to sit and stay while you take care of baby needs. It will also build a good relationship between you and your dog that will give you the confidence to know that he/she will obey. It will also make it plausible for  you to involve your dog and baby in activities together. Baby can chill in the stroller while Rover gets some great exercise walking on a local walking path.

So what about the cat? Too many cats are surrendered to shelters because an ill informed doctor convinces the mother cleaning the litter box will kill the baby or the cat will smother the child. Common sense goes a long way in life. First, if you are worried about the litter box, wear gloves. They're cheap and effective. Problem solved. Cat gets to live.

Next, if you are worried about the cat smothering the baby, don't leave them in the same room. To a cat, a person, baby or adult, is a heating pad. The face is like a heat vent because warm air blows out (at least as long as the person is alive). Contrary to popular belief, the cat is not an evil entity with a diabolical plan to kill the baby. He just wants to be warm and cozy. Buy the cat a heating pad that is warmer than the baby, sprinkle a little catnip on it, and Baby will be forgotten.

Other issues I have heard from pet parents are worries of zoonosis. That's a fancy word for diseases that can be passed from animal to human or human to animal. The answer to this is pretty simple. First make sure your pet is well vaccinated and dewormed. Practice good sanitation. Clean up after pet and baby. Never let the baby near the litterbox. Its really fairly simple.

While I realize that having a new baby in the house can be very overwhelming, I also believe we should take our commitment to our pets seriously. If, however, your solution to the situation is putting an inside pet outside and forgetting he/she exists only at feeding time, then, yes, find a another home for him or her. There is nothing sadder than a single pet once part of the family, abandoned outside where he can only watch life go by. A multiple pet home, such as one with two large dogs, can at least entertain one another outside.

My intention is not to make you feel guilty. It is to approach an issue head on and look for solutions. The solution may not be to keep the pet, but finding a new home for him or her can be much less traumatic than dumping at the local shelter and running. It can be easier for you and the pet. In further blogs, I will examine the options when looking for another home and I will help you develop criteria when searching for a new family.

The Mouth as the Window to the Health of the Pet

"Out of sight, out of mind" is a concept that can be detrimental when it comes to animal health.

 Its easy to see when your pet has a skin condition, or is limping, or has an eye infection. One of the most neglected part of pet health is the mouth.

While the eyes are the window to the soul, the gums and teeth are a window to the health of the pet.

A healthy mouth is free of gum disease, strong teeth free of calculus and tartar, and the gums are a nice shade of pink. There should be no strong odor.

Here is an image of a healthy mouth in both the dog and cat:

 Notice the nice healthy pink tint of the gums, the way the teeth are nicely anchored and free of nasty calculus and tartar. The gums are not a dark shade of red, pale white, or sickly yellow.

So what does that tell us? Red, inflamed gums, of course indicated gum disease. White or pale gums can indicated that the pet is anemic or that the blood is not pumping properly.

Brick colored gums suggest a bacterial infection, or sepsis. Blue gums are incredibly serious and mean that your pet is not getting enough oxygen.

If you see any of these colors, contact your vet immediately. Keep in mind that some breeds do have a black pigment on their gums. The more you look at the teeth and gums when your pet is young and healthy, the easier you will recognize when there is an abnormality.

Periodontal disease is a serious issue. Not only can the pet lose teeth, but the infection can affect the heart, kidneys, and liver. Much like an open sore on the skin is an opening to allow infection to invade the body, so too is the mouth.

When the mouth is filled with bacteria and infection, each time that pet swallows, the infection spreads. This is the importance of constant maintenance and observation.

While I would like to say that the photo below is the worst case of gingivitis I have seen in my career, it is not even close. I have seen veterinarians and long time technicians gag when trying to clean up a neglected mouth. The sad thing is, most of the time, a pet with a neglected mouth does not come from an unloving home, but from pet parents who didn't think to check the mouth.

In a perfect world, we would all brush our pets teeth, yet few of us do. Normally, one way to guess at pet's age is the condition of the mouth. Over the years, I've gotten pretty good at determining age. Then last year, I met a dog who I thought was a young dog of two to three years by the condition of his teeth, only to find out he was eight years old. I was absolutely stunned. His mom had brushed his teeth since the first day she adopted him as a puppy. He had never had to have a dental because of her diligence.

So what if you can't brush your own pet's teeth? First, feed dry food unless otherwise directed by your vet. The chewing action of the kibble helps to clean teeth. Second, products like Greenies(R) are a great way to help keep teeth healthy and is available for both dogs and cats.

Next, plan ahead. Every February is Pet Dental Month. Most veterinarians offer a 20-30% discount on their dental procedures. If you have multiple pets and limited resources, alternate years. This year, have Fluffy, who has the worst gingivitis, have his dental prophy. If you have the extra money, and can afford to get a full blood work up before anesthesia, do it! Its an awesome way to catch or prevent health issues. Next year, you can do the same for your second pet.

So, its February 4th. Go home, lift up those gums, and see what the mouth reveals. If you have any questions, feel free to ask in the comments!

And Please, share this new blog with your friends!!

How Changing the Way You Pet Parent Can Save You Money

After nearly 20 years in the animal care profession, I found I was very frustrated. As an animal cruelty investigator, I had seen so much neglect, only to find out that the pet parent didn't intend to do harm to the animal, but often had no idea what proper care included. I also found that a huge issue was finances.

At the time I believed that if you couldn't afford "proper" vet care for a pet, you should not have one. Yet,  I learned that if great finances was a requirement, more pets would be put to sleep because there would be few available homes.

So what was the solution? Veterinarians have to make a living just like everyone else and most do their best to help those who are less fortunate. As much as we would like them to be Superman and Wonder Woman of the animal care world, they can only do so much.

So, what if we as pet parents learned to be more proactive in our pets care? What if we could learn to treat the minor issues at home and save our pet dollars for the serious stuff?

That's what my approach is all about. I am not a veterinarian. I do not make diagnosis or treatment plans. I teach you what is normal for your pet, how to examine your pet from head to tail. I explain, in simple terms, how to keep things in good working order, and when to know its time to go to the vet. I help you learn techniques to treat in an emergency as someone drives you to the emergency clinic or if no local vet is available.

I also teach you how to finance your pet's care and what is the most effective way to utilize the money you have. I make vet visits less confusing and help you understand what blood work, x-rays, and other lab tests reveal.

For the most up to date research explained in layman's terms, come back to my blog again and again. I don't think you will be disappointed.

If you are in Northeast Tennessee and would be interested in attending a Saturday class given by The Pet Parent Professor, please email me at jcfarris.ppp@aol.com.